Lux India Tours
A wide empty valley runs toward successive ranges of bare Ladakhi mountains fading into the distance.

Ladakh · 13 Days

Ladakh — The Grand Two-Lakes Circuit

Almost all of accessible Ladakh in one route — the Sham valley and Alchi, the Indus monasteries, Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri, at a pace that respects the altitude.

Day by Day

13 Days, In Full

The full Ladakh circuit, built for someone with two weeks and the wish to see the lot. It opens gently, with Leh and a night in the low Sham valley for Alchi and Lamayuru, before the passes. Then the Indus monasteries, Nubra over Khardung La, and Pangong by the Shyok road. The last leg drops south into the Changthang for Tso Moriri and the Tso Kar salt lake, returning over the Tanglang La. Thirteen days, four high passes, three lakes, and the acclimatisation built into the shape of it.

The flat rooftops of Leh town stacked up the hillside, the bare Ladakh range rising behind them under a thin high-altitude sky.
01

Leh

Arrive in Leh — Rest and Acclimatise

You fly into Leh in the early morning, over the main Himalayan range. The airport sits at 3,500 metres, so the first day is a rest day, and this is not optional. Your guide checks you in and asks you to do very little. Drink water, eat lightly, sleep if you can. A short, slow walk to Leh market in the afternoon is as much as you should do. Giving the body a full day here now prevents altitude sickness later.

The white dome of Shanti Stupa on its hilltop above Leh, the old town and bare ridges falling away below
02

Leh

Leh — Old Town, Palace and Shanti Stupa

A gentle first full day, still close to the hotel. The morning is Leh's old town: the bazaar, the mosque, and the nine-storey palace above it. The climb through the palace floors is slow but short. In the afternoon, drive up to Shanti Stupa for the view over the valley. Sankar Monastery, a working gompa a short way from the centre, fills any spare time. An early night before tomorrow's monastery run.

An empty ribbon of tarmac unspools west across the high desert floor below Ladakh's bare, wind-scoured ridgelines.
03

Leh → Sham Valley

Leh to the Sham Valley — Basgo, Likir & Alchi

A drive west down the Indus, dropping in altitude the whole way, which helps. First stop is Basgo, a ruined mud-brick fort and its Maitreya temples on a wind-carved ridge. Then Likir, with its huge open-air gilded Buddha and, if you want it, a short turn at a village potter's wheel. The main visit is Alchi, the eleventh-century monastery on the river flats, with wall paintings found nowhere else in Ladakh. You reach your hotel at Nimmu or Nurla by late afternoon.

A traveller stands on a bluff where a braided river cuts through bare Ladakhi mountains on the road back to Leh.
04

Sham Valley → Leh

The Sham Valley back to Leh — Magnetic Hill & the Hall of Fame

An easy drive back up the valley to Leh, with the classic Sham stops on the way. The Indus-Zanskar confluence, where the clear green river meets the grey one. Magnetic Hill, a quick stop where the road plays a trick on the eye. The Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, a Sikh shrine built around a boulder. Closer to town, the Hall of Fame, the army's museum of the region's mountain wars. You are back in Leh, at a higher but now familiar altitude, by early afternoon.

The Thiksey monastery complex tiered up its hill above the Indus valley, Ladakh
05

Leh

The Indus Valley Monasteries — Thiksey and Hemis

A full day among the great monasteries south-east of Leh. Start early at Thiksey, a twelve-storey monastery on a hill, for the dawn prayers if you are up to it. Then Hemis, the largest and richest in Ladakh, hidden in a side gorge. Shey, the old royal palace with its giant seated Buddha, and Stok are on the way back. It is a lot of driving, but the roads are good and the valley is beautiful. Back in Leh by evening.

Travellers pause on a snow-covered slope at Khardung La, one of the world's highest motorable passes, on the road from Leh to the Nubra valley.
06

Leh → Nubra Valley

Over Khardung La to the Nubra Valley

The drive to Nubra crosses Khardung La, at about 5,360 metres one of the highest motorable passes in the world. You stop briefly at the top for photos and tea, but not long, because of the altitude. The road then drops a long way into the Nubra valley, green and wide after the bare passes. You reach your Nubra hotel by mid-afternoon. The rest of the day is at rest by the river. The full drive takes five to six hours with stops.

The 32-metre Maitreya Buddha statue of Diskit Monastery seated above the Nubra valley
07

Nubra Valley

Nubra — Diskit Monastery and the Hunder Dunes

A full day in the Nubra valley. The morning is Diskit Monastery and its 32-metre Maitreya statue, which looks down the valley towards Pakistan. In the afternoon, the white sand dunes at Hunder, with their two-humped Bactrian camels. A short camel ride runs in the last hour of light, when the dunes turn gold. Turtuk, a Balti village near the border that only opened to visitors in 2010, is an option for those with the time. A second night in Nubra.

A wide grey river braids across the floor of the Nubra valley beneath steep, bare mountain walls on the rough road toward Pangong.
08

Nubra Valley → Pangong Lake

Nubra to Pangong — The Shyok River Road

A long, rough and spectacular drive that avoids going back over Khardung La. The road follows the Shyok river east, through a wide, empty valley of braided river channels and bare rock. Parts of it are unpaved and slow. There are no towns and few people for hours. You reach Pangong from the north in the late afternoon, with the lake opening up ahead. Plan on seven to eight hours on the road. It is worth it.

The vivid blue water of Pangong Tso stretching between bare brown ridges under a clear Ladakh sky.
09

Pangong Lake

A Day on the Shore of Pangong

A slow day by the lake, which is the point of coming this far. The water changes colour through the day, so it rewards sitting still and watching. A short drive along the shore towards the villages of Man and Merak gets you away from the day-trip crowds at Spangmik. The altitude here is 4,350 metres, so walking is slow and naps are normal. After dark, the sky fills with stars. A second night on the shore.

A high, snow-streaked ridge line of the Ladakh range on the return climb from Pangong toward Leh over Chang La.
10

Pangong Lake → Leh

Pangong back to Leh — Chang La and the Long Valley

An early start to be over Chang La before the afternoon wind. The pass is at about 5,360 metres and often holds snow even in summer. Below it the road runs down past Hemis and Thiksey, so there is a chance to stop at either if you missed them. You are back in Leh by mid-afternoon, at a lower and easier altitude. The last evening is free for the market and for packing. The drive is five to six hours in all.

A lone horse grazes a startling green sweep of high-plateau pasture ringed by the bare hills of Changthang.
11

Leh → Tso Moriri

Leh to Tso Moriri — Down the Indus, past the Hot Springs

A long, remote drive south-east into the Changthang plateau, about two hundred and twenty kilometres and seven hours. The road follows the Indus upstream through Upshi and Chumathang, where hot springs steam by the river. Past Mahe the land opens into wide, empty, high pasture, and the first kiang, the wild ass of the plateau, appear. The last stretch runs beside a smaller lake, Kyagar Tso, before Tso Moriri itself comes into view. You reach the camp at Korzok in the late afternoon.

A vast still blue lake laps a barren shoreline below sunlit treeless mountains at high altitude.
12

Tso Moriri

A Day at Tso Moriri — Korzok, the Shore & the Nomads

A slow day by the lake, which is why the drive was worth it. The morning can be an early birdwatching walk along the marshy north shore, where bar-headed geese and the black-necked crane nest in summer. Korzok village has a small monastery, one of the highest in the world, worth half an hour. In the afternoon, a visit to a Changpa nomad camp among the pashmina goats and black tents. The altitude here is 4,500 metres, so the pace stays gentle. A second night on the shore.

Low sun blazes over a snow-covered high ridge, the kind of 5,000-metre pass the road home from Tso Moriri climbs.
13

Tso Moriri → Leh

Tso Moriri to Leh — Tso Kar & the Tanglang La

The drive back to Leh by the western road, over the Rupshu plateau. First stop is Tso Kar, the white salt lake, where kiang graze the shore and the old salt-scraping village of Thukje sits below a small monastery. The road then joins the Leh-Manali highway and climbs the Tanglang La, one of the highest passes in the world at about 5,300 metres. From the top it is a long descent down the Indus valley, past Upshi, into Leh. The full day is seven to eight hours with stops.

A private itinerary being sketched out by hand

Kashmir to Kanyakumari

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