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The painted gopuram towers of the Ranganathaswamy temple at Srirangam glow at sunset.

Tamil Nadu · 8 Days

Tamil Nadu — Temples & the French Coast

The core southern route in eight days — coast, French town, Chola temples and Madurai, flying out from Madurai.

Day by Day

8 Days, In Full

The classic first trip through Tamil Nadu, coast to interior. Chennai and the Pallava monuments at Mamallapuram. Two nights in Pondicherry for the French quarter and Auroville. Inland through Chidambaram and Gangaikonda Cholapuram to Thanjavur for the thousand-year-old Big Temple and the palace bronze gallery. On to Madurai, past the island temple of Srirangam and the Trichy Rock Fort, for two nights and the Meenakshi temple with its night ceremony. Out from Madurai's own airport.

Aerial view of Chennai's Marina Beach curving along the Bay of Bengal beside the city.
01

Chennai

Arrive in Chennai

Chennai is the usual gateway to the south, with direct flights from the Gulf, South-East Asia and across India. You are met at the airport and driven to the hotel. If the arrival is early enough, the afternoon covers Mylapore: the Kapaleeshwarar Temple with its painted tower, the lanes of flower sellers, and San Thome, the church built over the tomb of the apostle Thomas. The evening is free, perhaps a first South Indian meal and a walk on Marina Beach as it cools.

A coconut palm leans over the sea at a beach along Chennai's East Coast Road.
02

Chennai → Mahabalipuram

Chennai to Mahabalipuram — Down the East Coast Road

A short drive south, about two hours, down the East Coast Road along the sea. Stops on the way: the Cholamandal artists' village, India's largest artists' commune, and DakshinaChitra, an open-air museum of relocated South Indian houses and living crafts. You reach Mamallapuram by early afternoon. The rest of the day is the Shore Temple on the beach, best in the low evening light, and a walk through the carvers' workshops along the main road.

An open coastal highway on the Coromandel coast running toward Puducherry.
03

Mahabalipuram → Pondicherry

Mahabalipuram to Pondicherry — the Coast Road

A drive of about two and a half hours further down the coast to the old French town of Pondicherry. The road runs past salt pans and fishing villages, with an optional stop at the Sadras Dutch fort or the bird sanctuary at Vedanthangal in season. You arrive in White Town by afternoon and settle into the quieter pace. The evening is for the Promenade, closed to traffic, as the town comes out to walk by the sea.

Aerial view of Pondicherry's White Town and the nineteenth-century French lighthouse by the sea.
04

Pondicherry

Pondicherry — White Town and Auroville

A morning walk through the French Quarter: the grid of mustard-and-white houses, the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, and the seafront. It can be done on foot or by bicycle. After lunch, the short drive north to Auroville, the international township founded in 1968, for the visitor centre and the walk to the viewpoint over the golden Matrimandir. The late afternoon is free for the cafes and boutiques of the old town.

The tank and towered halls of the Nataraja temple at Chidambaram in the Kaveri delta.
05

Pondicherry → Thanjavur

Pondicherry to Thanjavur — the Chola Temple Country

A long but rewarding drive inland, about four and a half hours, through the rice country of the Kaveri delta. Two great temples break the journey: Chidambaram, where Shiva is worshipped as the cosmic dancer Nataraja in a gold-roofed hall, and Gangaikonda Cholapuram, the near-empty temple a second Chola king built to match the one at Thanjavur. You reach Thanjavur by evening, in time to see the Brihadeeswarar Temple lit and quiet after the day's crowds have gone.

The brightly painted tiered gopuram of the Ranganathaswamy temple at Srirangam near Trichy.
06

Thanjavur → Madurai

Thanjavur to Madurai — via Trichy's Temples

A driving day of about four hours with two major temple stops at Tiruchirappalli, halfway. Srirangam, on an island in the Kaveri, is the largest working Hindu temple complex in the world, seven walls and twenty-one gopurams around the shrine of Vishnu as Ranganatha. The Rock Fort rises straight out of the town, an 83-metre outcrop with a Ganesha temple on top and a long stair climb for the view. You reach Madurai in the evening for the Meenakshi night ceremony.

The arched colonnade of pillars at the Thirumalai Nayak Palace in Madurai.
07

Madurai

Madurai — the Meenakshi Temple and the Nayak City

A full day in the old city. The Meenakshi Amman Temple in the cool of the morning: the fourteen painted towers, the twin shrines to the goddess and to Shiva, the hall of a thousand carved pillars, and the golden-lotus tank. Then the Thirumalai Nayak Palace and the Gandhi Memorial Museum, housed in a Nayak queen's palace. The afternoon is the flower and produce market and the tailors' hall by the east tower, and, if there is time, the drive out to the Tiruparankundram rock temple.

People and auto-rickshaws move through a busy bazaar street in Madurai.
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Madurai

Madurai — Departure

A free morning, depending on the flight. Madurai has its own airport with connections to Chennai, Bengaluru, Hyderabad and Mumbai, and a direct link or two to the Gulf. A last look at the temple, quieter after the dawn worship, or an unhurried South Indian breakfast, before the short drive to the airport. For travellers going on to Kerala, the road west over the Western Ghats to Periyar or Madurai's rail links are the usual routes.

A private itinerary being sketched out by hand

Kashmir to Kanyakumari

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8-Day Tamil Nadu Tour — Chennai to Madurai via the Chola Country | Lux India Tours