Alleppey, Kerala · premium

Punnamada Resort

★★★★☆

Punnamada Resort sits on the edge of Punnamada Lake, which is the stretch of water the Nehru Trophy Boat Race is rowed on every August. For most of the year it is quiet. Fishing canoes cross it in the morning and houseboats drift out in the afternoon. The resort is laid out low and wide across the waterfront. Accommodation is in Kerala-style blocks and cottages with tiled roofs and wooden detail, set among coconut palms and lawns that run down to the water. Rooms face either the lake or the gardens. The lake-facing ones are worth asking for. Interiors keep to local materials — wood, stone, woven cane — without tipping into theme. There is a pool, an ayurvedic treatment centre and a restaurant that leans on Kerala backwater cooking: karimeen from the lake, coconut, curry leaf, kokum. The practical advantage is the jetty. Houseboat cruises leave from the water in front of the resort, so a backwater day does not begin with a transfer. Alleppey town, the beach and the canal network are all close by.